May 18, 2011, Day 2, Natchez Trace Parkway

Morning at Rocky Springs Campground, Mississippi

This was the largest campsite we had ever had. It was a palatial piece of woods. Though it would have been nice to stay longer in the quiet, serene, reverent environment we were eager to continue our adventures on the Natchez Trace Parkway.

Mile Post 73

A Stand was a home that offered overnight accommodations for travelers on the trace. Sometimes the offering was a place to bunk down on the covered but open porch and corn mush. 

All that remains here is the family  cemetery.

A part of the original trace.

Here we met up with Sid Mar'tinez who had been in the Natchez Trace State Park one of the nights we were there. He is a cross country solo bicyclist, carrying all that he needs, including his tent, on his bike. He lives in Covington, LA, though he doesn't know when he'll get home.

Flat Stanley enjoyed meeting Sid and began to think about taking long bicycle rides when we get home. He promised to always bike with a friend or family member and to always wear his helmet.

Milepost 88.1

Cowles Mead Cemetery

Fresh flowers had very recently

been hung on Cowles' fence.

In memory of

Cowles Mead

whose

pure life

exemplified the Spirit

of an

Honest man

1776-1844

Milepost 101

Mississippi Craft Center

Milepost 105.6

Ross Barnett Reservoir on the Pearl River parallels the parkway for eight miles.

Here's ¼ of the Methodist group with 70 miles to go today!

One young woman, now in Indiana for college, is from Canton, OH, and knew the area where the UCC Church where Bill was pastor was located.

Milepost 114.4

When Eric of the Model T heard we were going to stay with no electricity again, he suggested we take the bridge across the reservoir for telephone service and WiFi. A no-brainer. It felt like old home week when the Model T arrived, and then the two cyclists. They were all bedded down early! Sid also biked in for the night and told us how glad he felt to see we were there, also. Bill helped Sid with some GPS information.

 

May 17, 2001 Day 1 on the Natchez Trace Parkway

Awakened to the wonderful news that our neighbors, Val and Steve, refugees from flood-threatened Vidalia, MS, are going to adopt the abandoned camp dog, Hobeaux (as Bill named him). Both Bill and I found an attachment to the gentle black and white dog. He was good buddies with Max and very caring about Isabel. He did not beg food. He just settled in with us as we sat outside and came along with us on our walks. I began to wonder if we could possibly become a three dog family. Bill, the wiser, said no. I started to think about how to put him on a plane to Nashville and to ask Marcie Williams if she'd have him be part of her rescued brood (about 15 now) if we'd sponsor room and board. Neither of us looked forward to leaving him behind, though Bill pointed out Hobeaux was living a pretty good life. When Bill offered to pay for a vet visit, Val and Steve laughed and explained that their niece was a vet. Hobeaux would get good care. The last thing Steve said to us was, “Be sure to watch your speed limits on the Trace!”

Had a small nail in one of the Casita tires. Bill had it fixed at WalMart while I shopped for groceries.

Our excitement was palatable. We were going to follow the Natchez Trace! We entered at the very beginning (or ending) in Natchez city.

 

Flat Stanley was interested in hearing about the post riders who carried mail and news on the Trace starting in 1801.

They took only 10 days to ride between Nashville and Natchez. They were chosen for the National Parkway logo.

The Mimosa really stand out

Mile Post 8.7 – Exhibit Shelter

Mile Post 15.5 – One of the oldest structures still standing.

First built in 1780. Operated as a farm (plantation) by 5 generations until 1944. The National Park Service began restoration in 1954, returning the home and “stand” or Inn to its 1820 appearance. The 1820 census lists 24 enslaved people here. By mid 1800s the number had reached 51.

In the parking lot we met this young couple, planning to bicycle from Natchez to Nashville! The young man's dad, Eric, a retired chemistry teacher from Mendenhall, MS, restores Model T cars and trucks. He's their crew for the week.

Eric asked to see inside the Casita.

Mile Post 17.5 Coles Creek Picnic Area

Mile Post 41.5

After two centuries, deep erosion has affected the Trace in some places.

Here we met up with 24 college students and friends who were also biking from Natchez to Nashville this week. They had driven from Indiana to start their big adventure.

They had 2 vans and a car for support.

Mile Post 54.8 – Rocky Springs

We settled in for a wonderful afternoon and evening. There was no electricity but the fee was $0.00.

Cut firewood, which we do not use, was very pretty.

This is the Natchez Trace. For many years it served [hu]man[s] well, but as with many things when its usefulness passed, it was abandoned.

Over the years, this time-worn path has been a silent witness to honor and dishonor. It bears the prints of countless [people].

Walk down the shaded trail – leave your prints in the dust, not for others to see, but for the road to remember.

Bill, Max, Isabel, Flat Stanley and I walked a mile of the old trace (to the left of the sign) emerging onto a paved road. We could only guess at which direction to go. Thankfully we ended up at the entrance to the campground. We always knew we could retrace our steps.

It seemed a privilege to be able to take a late afternoon's walk in the woods and think of all the people who had done so so many years ago.

5/17-24 Natchez Trace and Parkway

Many, many years ago, animals, especially deer and buffalo, first made paths from the far South, north to the great salt licks near what is now Nashville. Later, Native Americans followed these worn trails for their travels. One of these paths connected the Indian Nations on the Mississippi River with the Nashville area, 500 miles northeast on the Cumberland River.

“By the late 1700's, 'Kaintuck' boatmen were delivering trade goods via the Mississippi River to Natchez or New Orleans. With permission from the Choctaw and Chickasaw Indian Nations, their return trip home was overland along Indian trails later to become known as the Natchez Trace.” [from eParks.com]

Starting in 1801, the Pony Express used the trails and so we have the logo of the Express horse and rider. As soon as steamboats connected the North to the South and vice versa, there was no longer a heavy need for the overland trail. Parts of it still clearly exist, however.

The scenic, national parkway, Natchez Trace Parkway, was built as a commemoration of the historical significance of the trail and basically follows its course. It is a 440 mile journey on paved and groomed highway through what remains of wilderness in the states of Mississippi, Alabama, and Tennessee. No commercial vehicles are permitted.

Many times when people have heard we were going to take the Trace we heard something like, “It's a beautiful ride. Pay attention to the speed limit.” For the most part, the speed limit is 50 mph and not a half mile over! This makes for a relaxing trek with interesting things to see along the way.

Grand Isle State Park on the Gulf of Mexico, Post 2

May 8 - 11, 2011

We walked the beach each evening. Much sand was taken by Katrina. Hard, packed clay takes its place except in the region of the levee.

Patty from near Baton Rouge

Her story is on Grand Isle, Post 1